How to take pictures in good quality. How to learn to take better pictures. How to choose a frame? Typical mistakes

In this topic, I propose to discuss how to properly photograph on a digital, and not only, a camera.

First, let's make a block for beginners, so to speak, who just bought a camera with manual settings. Later we will add a block for advanced amateurs. Separate genres of shooting, as for example, I made a description about panoramas, can be distinguished by separate topics.

So you bought an advanced camera, no matter which company and what size, it is important that it has the ability to manually and semi-automatic settings. How to get photos so that the quality will please you?

Let's consider the main problems:

1. Technical settings of the camera. Exposure, exposure compensation, focusing.

2. On what focal points what to photograph.

3. What is depth of field and with what aperture / shutter speed what to shoot.

4. Basics of composition in photography.

5. Taking pictures with flash.

6. Histogram of what and why.

7. Taking pictures with a tripod.

0 ... To begin with, be sure to read the instructions for the camera, half of the questions on how to do this or that are covered in the instructions for the camera.

1 ... So, on modern cameras of an advanced and higher level, there are usually quite a lot of photography modes, this is a bunch of all sorts of software options, a full automatic - "green zone", a programmable automatic, where something can be changed - P, Aperture priority - A, shutter priority - T and manual settings- M.

For most shots, photographers use modes A, T and M. Moreover, as a rule, it is in this sequence that their frequency of use is used.

Why is that? Because, as a rule, we are interested in the nature of the image in the first place, and it depends on the aperture to the greatest extent.

Aperture priority mode as I wrote it is used in most cases, such as photographing landscapes, portraits, objects, "I was here", etc. In this mode, the user selects the aperture and the shutter speed is automatically set.

Shutter priority mode used to photograph movement, for example: Sports, a car in motion, fountains and waterfalls, etc.

Manual mode used as a rule for staged photography with a thoughtful approach or when shooting with a flash.

Also on advanced devices there is an exposure metering mode, for a start, let's define what this is all about.

Exposition it is a combination of three parameters in the camera: shutter speed, aperture and ISO - that is. sensitivity.

those. they form a kind of triangle

As you can see here, an increase in the value of any of these parameters leads to an increase in undesirable effects.

Excerpt- this is the time when the matrix of the camera is exposed to illumination, the larger it is, the more evenly you need to hold the camera, otherwise everything will be blurry. It is usually measured in fractions of a second, or in seconds. 1/125, for example, means that the matrix will light up for 1/125 seconds, i.e. 0.004 seconds. This shutter speed is shorter than 1/2, i.e. half a second for example.

Diaphragm is how much light passes through the lens. The more the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field, which we will consider below. The value is relative, therefore it is simply 2, 4, 5.6, etc. The higher the value, the less light enters the sensor.

Sensitivity or ISO- how sensitive the matrix is to light, in fact, not quite so, but we will assume that so. The higher the ISO, the more noise appears in the picture, all other things being equal, that is, at ISO 6400 there is an order of magnitude more noise than at ISO 200.

The very same exposure, being a combination of these three parameters, is responsible for how dark or light the picture will be. When it is dark in the frame, it is called underexposure, when it is too light, it is overexposure.

The automatic exposure control in the camera works on a medium-gray value, so if there is a lot of dark in the frame, it will try to make it all gray, and if there is a lot of white, it will also turn gray. What to do? Nao take advantage exposure compensation, i.e. You seem to be telling the camera that there is a lot of dark in the frame by setting the exposure compensation to minus or a lot of light, by setting the exposure compensation to plus.

For example, shooting in winter, a lot of snow, bright sun, and the cards are gray ... this cameraman simply does not know that the snow is white, it was necessary to set the exposure compensation to plus 1 or even plus 2, and the snow will turn white, the same thing if you are photographing, for example, a black car, which suddenly turns gray. Only here the exposure compensation had to be turned to minus. How to turn it depends on the camera, see the instructions.

Now let's move on to metering modes - as a rule, there are several of them. Usually it is recommended to use either matrix metering or center-weighted metering, the algorithms of their work are slightly different so we read the instructions.

Focusing is focusing on the desired subject. Cameras that are simpler have one focusing point, those that are more complex have more of them, dozens of professional ones. Now the fun part, as a rule, you should only use ONE focus point. For on the machine, he will grab, for example, the object closest to you, instead of the face of his beloved. So leave the focusing point ONE and in the center. it is usually the most sensitive. We press the shutter button, the camera focuses where we need it and not where it wanted, and then we reframe without releasing the button to the frame we need. After that we finish the descent. We smoothly squeeze, as we shoot from a weapon, there is no need to pull and there is no need to press, we just smoothly squeeze to the end.

By the way, how to hold the camera? It is correct to hold it like this - the right hand has a side grip, the index finger is on the trigger, the left hand is holding the camera from below! Not from the side, but from below! In this case, the fingers rest on the lens zoom ring, if it is a zoom of course.

Something like that:

Those. the hand from below holds it, and not the hand that presses the trigger holds it. It is better to press the left hand to the body, hold your breath a little at the time of descent, the legs are in a comfortable position, as a rule, this is the left leg a little forward, the right leg a little back and across. In general, almost like shooting) The better you fix the camera, the clearer your shot will be!

2 ... Now let's move on to focal lengths, for convenience we will reduce them to film measurements. This is a common starting point. To begin with, let's define something like that in general.

The focal length is the distance from the center of the optical system (in the simplest case of a lens) to the point where the rays converge. A plane parallel to the lens axis and passing through the focusing point is the focal plane. What's the point? the more focal length, the smaller the angle of view is included. Well, as a simple example, a keyhole, the further you are from it, the less you see. It's the same here. BUT, on the other hand, on the camera, the smaller the angle, the larger the same object turns out, since it already falls on the entire frame, and not on its part. Based on all this, the following picture emerges:

now further, the increase still depends on the size of the matrix, the larger it is, the smaller the increase. Therefore, to calculate the focal length for your system, if it is not a full-frame system, the ratio of the size of your sensor to a full-frame one, the so-called crop factor, is used. For most Canon DSLRs, this is 1.6, for Nikon and Sony, 1.5. Well, if, for example, 17-55 is written on the lens, then multiplying for Canon by 1.6 we get that on a full-frame matrix this corresponds to 27-88 mm. For point-and-shoot cameras, two parameters are often written: the focal length of the lens and the focal length of the lens, reduced to 35mm, i.e. to the full frame, for example 6.0 - 22.5 is written on the lens and the instructions contain a phrase about "Focal length (35 mm equivalent) 28 - 106.40 mm", from which we can calculate that the crop factor will be equal to 28/6 = 4.7 = 106.4 / 22.5 approximately everything is finite.

Well, let's consider the most frequently used focal lengths for 35 mm:

Architecture - 24mm and more

Landscape - 24mm and more

in both variants it is possible and even wider

Full-length photograph of a person - 70-90 mm

Photo of a person's face - 80-135 mm

Taking pictures of birds and animals 70-600 mm and more, such as tigers and lions)

Macro - 50-200

Why is it so?

Everything is very simple - with landscapes everything is clear enough to fit in.

With animals and birds, it's also understandable, you can't get closer, you need to get closer.

A person is not clear to everyone, but in fact everything is simple, distortions. The whole reason is distortion. By the way, it is also better to shoot cars in the range of people, if you do not need special effects. The wider the angle, the more distortion in the photo, the further the background appears to be what it is, i.e. for example, the nose will be large and the ears will be small, because the nose is much closer to the lens than the ears for a wide angle portrait, you will have to shoot almost point-blank. BUT it also has its own features, for example, photographing your beloved at a wide angle from bottom to top, almost from the floor, you will make it much higher visually, and your legs will be long) But if, on the contrary, it is better not to show the photo to her. especially if there are heavy dishes nearby. Cars can also be photographed at a wide angle, quite interesting things can turn out.

Aims at the person you need to closest eye to you... This is due to the peculiarity of perception, the eye must be clear.

3. Now by diaphragm... You and I have decided that we are shooting in the priority of the aperture, i.e. the wheel selects the mode A or Av depending on the camera.

The optics are built on such principles that, as a rule, it is sharper at aperture values of 5.6 - 8.0... At more open apertures, blurring from optics begins (on budget lenses, it is especially noticeable), on more closed ones, i.e. for example, 16 and above, blurring begins on the matrix due to light diffraction. We'll skip this for now, but just believe it. There is such a rule: the smaller the matrix size, the lower the aperture value without loss of sharpness on the matrix. Those. for a DSLR this parameter is around 8, for a full-format DSLR it can even be 16, but a soap dish even at 2.8 can start blurring already on the matrix, especially if there are a lot of pixels, so multi-pixel matrices are a purely commercial move, nafig they are not needed, especially in soap dishes. 10-12 megapixels for a soap dish is already too much) Crop mirrors are about 24 edges.

Therefore, in most cases, we set the Av mode, the aperture from 5.6 to 8.0 and shoot. The shutter speed will be selected automatically. This parameter varies for each specific lens model. If you have a whale lens, then the maximum sharpness value reaches approximately 7.1. The better the lens, the sharper it is at the wider aperture. I will throw off the graphs later for an example.

ISO- for daylight we set as little as possible, for DSLRs it is 100 or 200. There is not much difference. From 400 to 800 is quite tolerable, it may be required, for example, in the shade or in the evening, when there is nowhere to open the diaphragm.

Endurance - you need to monitor it so that there is no lubrication. How to determine potential lubrication? It is usually considered that if the focal length is f mm for full frame, then the shutter speed should be no longer than 1 / f. For example, you have a Canon 1100D crop with a crop factor of 1.6. You are photographing at a zoom of 50 mm, so your shutter speed should be no longer than 1 / (1.6 * 50) = 1/80, i.e. 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 is approx. 1/60 - as you are lucky, and 1/30 will most likely be grease.

If it’s dark, then first we try to open the aperture, then if there’s nowhere to go, we increase the ISO to acceptable values (depending on the camera down), and if it’s at all, then we try to shoot like this by freezing and using the self-timer with a timer delay. So there are less tremors and less movement of the camera. Or use a tripod.

Shooting with shutter priority- here, as a rule, motion is removed and depends on what we want to show. For example - we want to freeze a person in the air while jumping, set the shutter speed to no longer than 1/500, the aperture is selected by itself. On the contrary, we want to blur the object in motion - well, for example, a car, set the shutter speed to 1/60, it will blur ... We want to blur the water so that it is smooth and soft - shutter speed for a couple of seconds

Auto wired 1/30

Car lights in a city like 1/2

More about the diaphragm: the diaphragm determines the depth of field of the imaged space, i.e. abbreviated to DOF. What it is? It is very conditional and approximately, literally on the fingers: this is the volume that will be depicted sharply in the photograph, everything will be blurred outside of it. Those. For example, we photograph a person in the background, say, a park. If we open the aperture as wide as possible, and our lens allows us to open, say, up to 1.4. Then the entire background will be blurred, and the foreground too. Moreover, even one eye will be sharp, and the second will start to blur, because the depth of field is very small. But if we squeeze it to 16, say, then the grip zone will be larger and the background will be sharp. Those. the aperture, we still control how sharp objects at different distances in the frame will be. What else affects the depth of field? Matrix size. The smaller the matrix, the greater the depth of field. By the way, this is the answer why there is no focus on mobile phones, for example. The matrix is so small, and the aperture is so weak that the depth of field is very large, practically from the boots to the horizon. And you can't get the effect of a blurred background. In general, very rough and primitive, do we want to blur the background? Maximum magnification on the lens and maximum open aperture. If we want to increase the DOF, so that everything is sharp, then we set the aperture larger and the zoom smaller. For example, a landscape - 16 aperture and a focal length equivalent to 24 - we focus on an object 3 meters from us and get a sharp image from 1.5 meters to the horizon. We shoot the wife so that the background is beautifully blurred. opposite the translucent leaves, set the maximum zoom of 135 mm in equivalent and open the aperture to 2.0, for example, the wife is 4 meters away from us, we get the boundaries of a sharp image 3.95 4.06, i.e. only 10 cm. The ears will no longer be sharp.

There is a great depth of field calculator - http://www.vladimirmedvedev.com/calc.html

4 ... Basics of composition, first and common mistake- the location of objects in the center, straight, precise and clear. You can't do that!

There is a rule of "golden ratio"

etc. those. it is advisable to place the objects of photography on these lines, for example, a person's eyes on the upper line, the horizon line or on the upper line or on the lower, etc. no need to do in the center of the horizon line. if, for example, this is not a reflection of a building or tree in the water, you do not need to shove your face into the center, move it a little to the side and up.

When photographing people, leave the place where the gaze is directed, it is not necessary that it rests against the edge of the frame, if the car, then in the direction of travel leave it a place, etc.

Try to balance the photograph, i.e. if there is something massive in one part, then there must be something in the other, otherwise it will outweigh it.

Try to play with colors, contrast is good for photography, old new, red blue, etc.

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2664247.jpg

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2669157.jpg

You can see how to crop when photographing people here:

How impossible is it here:

5 ... Many flashes are working now in automatic mode metering, such as ETTL, it is best for them to do this. We set the M mode if there is not enough light, well, for example, in an apartment, or Av if there is enough and you just need to highlight the shadows, and shoot. In M mode, we set the aperture we need, 5.6 for example, and the shutter speed so that there is no blur, depends on the focal, well, 1/125 for example (the shortest that can be set depends on the camera and the flash (high-speed sync)) and shoot. The flash itself will pre-fire and determine how much power you need to puff. I will describe in detail if anyone is interested)

6 ... Histogram of what and why.

The histogram shows how many light, dark and medium tones you have in your photo. Those. it can be said as a "graphic equalizer" on a radio tape recorder))) Only instead of frequencies, the number of bright and dark pixels is shown. Accordingly, it is possible to determine by it a dark picture came out or not. On many fotik this case is present. So if the histogram is shifted strongly to the right, then the photo is dark, if it is strongly to the left, then light, if in the middle, then medium gray. We must try to make it correspond to reality and not go beyond the boundaries. Those. if you see white snow in front of you, and the histogram shows that the maximum of pixels is colored in average colors, then the photo will be gray. We correct the exposure, shoot, we see that the histogram has moved to the left - the photo is approx. We see that it has moved so that it seems to be cut off, which means that some of the sections will be knocked out in white. There is also an option to view the histogram by channel, i.e. by colors. So, for example, a bright red flower can knock out the red color and you have, instead of tonalities, like here

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2664240.jpg

there will be bright red petals, as if a child painted everything with one color with a brush.

Here is an example of a histogram on a fotik

you can see both the frame and the histogram. According to it, we can say that: a lot of light and a lot of dark, there are almost no medium-bright objects, dark areas can be knocked out in black, because the histogram is sharply cropped on the right.

7 ... Taking pictures with a tripod.

It is necessary to photograph from a tripod either with a release delay or from the remote control. Because pressing the button with your hands, you will shake the tripod, this is clearly visible if there is a “live picture” mode with maximum magnification. So set the shutter timer to 10 seconds, press it and leave the tripod alone. It is advisable to stomp next to it and not jump)

So, you bought (or begged from your parents) your first serious camera. Our congratulations! Often, when the puppy's delight from all these spinning wheels, mysterious buttons, interesting levers passes, then a completely logical question immediately arises: what should I do now to learn how to photograph beautifully? Where is the magic mode called "100% Cool Shot". How to learn to take cool photos?

In order not to fuel your confusion caused by ominous words: ISO, aberration, bokeh and aperture, we decided to make it easier for you to find the information you need and have collected the most important and useful tips on the topic: "how to learn to take good pictures." And we dedicate the resulting little memo to you, a novice amateur photographer.

How do you know how good your photograph is?

First of all, you need to understand the concepts. How can you tell a good professional photo from a bad one? First of all, you should pay attention to the lighting. It is not necessary to immediately rush to the store for professional studio equipment. Your main ally is a well-chosen angle, time and place of shooting, when natural light will show itself from better side... From this we can conclude: the subject is not as important as what perspective you choose for this subject.

If we talk about technology, then you can take a beautiful photo with anything, even with a phone that only has a 1-megapixel camera in its arsenal, the desire to learn is what is really important. Although professional photography will make your life much easier.

And so, you have a brand new pretty camera with a bunch of buttons that you can't wait to figure out. You must understand what your camera can do, what its advantages are and how you can use them advantageously. For example, you can't make a good portrait with excellent depth of field with a soap dish, but you can easily convey the mood of the picture and the composition.

How do you learn to photograph professionally?

Practical advice

Council number 1... The first thing to do is to study in detail the instructions for your unit. You need to understand all the functions, find out what each of the buttons is for and what will happen if you turn that wheel over there. Most frequent question What newbies come up with is: what mode should you use to take professional photos? Alas and ah, but one regime for all occasions does not exist. In order to learn how to take great pictures, you need to get to know more about shutter speed and aperture. Getting to know the shutter speed promises you magical pictures of the city at night, and you will fall in love with the aperture when you start taking pictures of people.

Council number 2... The next important aspect that you must master is ISO value(matrix photosensitivity). You need to understand that you cannot capture a beautiful landscape at high ISO values: there will certainly be noise. At night, it is advisable to photograph from a stop or from a tripod. And if the subject is in motion, and the shutter speed is nowhere long, then the ISO is best raised slightly so that the frame is not blurred. For capturing restless children and animals.

Council number 3 The lens is also an important part of photography. It is not difficult to guess that each lens has individual characteristics that somehow affect the final result. If you do not know what the letters on your lens mean (what a shame), then immediately start studying the markings. The main parameter of any lens that has the greatest impact on its cost is its aperture ratio. Before you spend extra money on another lens, figure out if you really need it. Do you want to plunge into a mysterious depth of field, or just enjoy good focus? Knowledge is the power that will help protect your wallet from unnecessary acquisitions.

Tip # 4... In cases where there is not enough light, you have to use a flash. Note that the flash unit already in the camera is only suitable for situations where the main light source is behind the subject or in harsh daylight. You shouldn't try to shoot indoors with the built-in flash, otherwise you'll get a flare on your face and a not-so-pretty shadow in the background. Although in order to achieve a certain mood of the picture you can break all the rules, the main thing is that the picture should come out “with a soul”.

Council number 5... Don't ignore white balance. The color rendition in your picture depends on it. If you want to photograph a sunset that can collect more than 100 likes, then learn how to properly configure this function.

Council number 6... If your photos are blurry, then you should not immediately call your camera or lens unflattering words. Maybe it's all about you? See what you are doing wrong, check the settings.

Council number 7... Do not forget about the possible appearance chromatic aberration who like to fit into the frame together with the sun. Also be aware of diffraction, which can spoil sharpness in macro mode. Consider distortion with wide-angle lenses as well. Googled all these phenomena and learn their definitions "by the teeth".

Council number 8... Remember the filters. The gradient filter will allow you to get an incredible effect, the polaric will show the true beauty of the blue sky, and the protective filter can protect your lens from all kinds of scratches and water.

By following all these rules, you can easily take the "right" photo. Beauty depends on emotions, ideas, moods, fantasies: they can only be developed. Get inspired by the work of other photographers, connect with colleagues and, of course, learn.

In our school you will find. You will not only learn how to do beautiful pictures, but you will also master retouching, professional equipment and many other useful things.

Good day, dear friends! I am glad to welcome you to our pages again. From today's short article, you will find out the answer to the question, with simple tips and colorful examples.

Why did I decide to talk about the process of getting a photo? Yes, everything is simple, the very processing of photos in graphic editors is inextricably linked with the very process of creating photographic masterpieces, and therefore meet - 10 ingredients for a good shot.

I hope these 10 simple tips, will allow you to raise the level of your photography skills to the next level.

How to learn how to take pictures correctly with a DSLR?

Everything is simple here, try to place an odd number of objects on your frame when photographing, be it simple fruits (as in the photo below) or groups of people. Believe me, an odd number of objects looks much nicer than an even number.)

Even number of berries

and there are only three berries

This advice probably applies more to general advice "How to improve a photo", but let it be up to the heap. Its meaning is to use fast lenses with the maximum open aperture for this lens (1.2, 1.4, 1.8). Thanks to this, we will get a very clear subject to be photographed, but at the same time the background will be blurred, like the trees in the picture below.

This tip helps to get rid of unnecessary "trash" in the background and create the main focus on the subject being photographed. So, now you also know the secret of getting beautiful. 🙂 Now you are a true professional 🙂

Probably the most notorious advice, but at the same time one of the most effective and popular ways to build a competent frame composition. Improve your pictures overnight SLR if you overexpose this advice. Its meaning lies in the fact that the photographed object is correctly positioned at one of the 4 points of an imaginary 3 × 3 grid, as in the example below.

Currently, most modern cameras allow you to display such a grid on the screen when photographing (depending on the specific camera model). Below is a portrait according to this rule)

As the saying goes: "the simpler the shot, the better." There is nothing to prevent us from enjoying the main subject depicted in the photo.

Alternatively, you can use tip # 2 along with this one to blur distracting details in your photo.

Here's another tip for you, how to take pictures with a DSLR... You didn't manage to use the “rule of thirds”, then just place the main subject in the center of the frame,

leaving some free space around the edges. This advice is also best used when photos there are few secondary details, but there is one main subject for your shot.

Tip 6 Add space in front of a moving subject

Too important advice that must always be remembered. Someone rides a bicycle, a car, or just a couple strolling through the park. Just take and add spaces in front of the subject and the frame will heal. new life, take my word for it. It works.

Take a look below, the frame is built according to the "rule of thirds" plus this advice has been added to it. And the photo immediately becomes more vivid. We are waiting for completion, we conjecture in our head that, at some moment, the snowboarder will land.

And here's another frame for example, take a look at the runner in the first screenshot, the space in front of her makes the photo more active.

And here's a shot as the subject emerges from the photograph. The run is already over.

Blimey! And here's the proverbial S curve. Remember that using such a curve raises the saturation of the photo and makes it more expressive? Why do we need this curve? Just a photo that shows such an imaginary (imaginary curve) looks more dynamic,

compared to photography where there is no such curve.

The use of the S-curve can also be seen in antique sculptures.

Most modern landscape photographs usually have a middle ground and a background (the most distant places in the picture are mountains, the horizon, etc.)

And very little attention is paid to the foreground. Want to raise your photography level above, just grab and add something to the foreground. For example a stone like in the photo below. This will immediately add volume and a sense of presence to the place where the photo was taken.

It also works very well for portraits. Just add something to the foreground - here's another simple tip for you, how to learn to photograph professionally.

If you think you are close enough to your subject, then just try to get even closer to it. Just move closer and fill the frame completely, and in this case, you will have a completely different composition.

Take a look below. The photo shows the same wolf, but the story that the photo tells is different.

Another tip that will bring your photos to new level... You just need to find a natural or artificial frame in the environment. What do I mean by "frame"? It can be anything, an arch of a bridge, an arch of someone's house, etc. See how Tatj-Mahal has transformed in the photo below

And here is another example of using the natural frame in a photo.

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Hello readers! We are in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. Almost everyone now has a camera. But, having purchased a camera, can you now consider yourself a professional photographer? Most likely not, I think so. You can clearly see how the pictures of amateurs are far from the excellent shots of specialists in their field. Therefore, today the time has come to figure out how to learn how to photograph professionally and stop being an amateur.

Technique can provide many possibilities. But it is important to remember that, whatever they are, it will not replace your mind, the ability to give birth to incredible ideas and your own vision of the world. The camera will help to realize all this, nothing more. What you shoot your photos with matters, because the camera can be of different levels.

However, you can create a professional image with both a phone and an SLR camera. You can amaze the viewer with a picture not only in terms of its brightness, clarity, detail, but also with its composition and an interesting plot.

We take training into our own hands!

Do you want to photograph in such a way that your pictures will simply take your breath away? Not sure where to start or how to get there? This article is at your service. Not always, in order to do something well and professionally, you should study at a university, applying a certain amount of effort and wasting your time, you can do it yourself.

Mastering a DSLR camera, of course, takes more time. She has a complex device, but also many opportunities for the growth of a person as a photographer.

On the following points, I would like to capture your attention:

Photography as a craft and art... You should not be negligent about your hobby. Many people make good money on this! Photography is a whole science, a profession. Explore the concept of photography, its types, history, to create your own idea of it and what your role as a photographer is.
Photo education... There is no way to get away from theory. I advise not only to read about the direct features of the shooting process, but also more deeply - the structure of the camera, what and how it works. Also touch on the biography of famous masters of photography: where did they start their journey, what technique they prefer to use, in what style they shoot, etc. It also does not hurt to be like special courses, master classes.
Camera... A separate and important point is the study of your own camera. It doesn't matter what you have - a DSLR or a soap dish. You should know all its advantages and disadvantages. You can take decent photos with your phone, or you can not know what to do with expensive optics.
Practical focus... Take your camera with you whenever possible. After all, you never know where to find a great shot. Set aside free time only for photography and for nothing else - let it be time for your hobby.

In practice, you should study:

Features of light and its effect on the photo... This includes light from the side, directly in front of the camera, behind it and other intermediate options. There is also its own atmosphere and, therefore, other parameters will be needed for filming at sunset, sunrise, on a sunny day or at dusk. Some difficulties may arise in a room with its specific lighting, they should be paid attention to.
Differences in camera settings... Try all available modes, be sure to experiment with manual mode and basic exposure parameters.
Positioning objects in the frame(). Will the shot be dynamic, or maybe even balanced? What means will you use to direct the gaze of the observer? What principle will you rely on in a particular case? You should be able to answer all these questions, and you should prepare for shooting in advance in order to think over all such nuances.
The specifics of shooting portraits, landscapes, inanimate objects... Working with a model can be difficult, but you will spend just as much time creating a high-quality landscape or product picture.

Features of shooting on the phone

Since in the case of photographing with a phone, the resolution and image quality will be relatively low, which means that the emphasis will have to be made on the content of the frame. And there are some tips here:

Wipe the lens of the small camera... If a particle of dust or a print on an SLR camera does not spoil the entire frame, then in the case of these optics, debris may fall on the entire image.
Crop right away... If you have digital zoom on your cell phone, it’s better not to use it. Get closer to your subject and you won't need to zoom in on the photo. There is no particular sense in it, since in any case, the resolution on the phone, as already mentioned, is low.
Choose a large format... The highest quality (and largest) photo will provide maximum detail and clarity.
Searching for the light... Lighting is important in any photograph, but in the absence of good camera quality and good flash, light becomes an even more significant factor. Choose objects that are hit by rays of light, or wait for the appropriate moment of their best illumination.
Avoid Contrasts... Even a high-quality camera is not able to display a sharp cut-off in the picture: usually either the earth and buildings will be too dark, and the sky is normal, or the sky is overexposed, and the earth's surface is well exposed. What can we say about the phone camera.
Consider delay... The shutter of a telephone camera, of course, works slower than a real camera, so before taking a picture, he will “think” for a few seconds. At this time, it is highly undesirable to move, wait. You can even recommend putting on the burst option.
New optics... For a certain type of phones, the same smartphones, you can pick up interchangeable lenses. Actually, this is a good option for exploring the possibilities of mobile photography.

Soap Dish Camera

Compact cameras are also different, but if we talk about simple amateur soap boxes, then usually we have a low price and a limited set of functions. In the case of such cameras, not only the points listed above will be true, but another one is added - work with parallax.

Its influence on the picture is quite significant, so you need to remember about it and build the frame accordingly. It consists in a certain percentage of the discrepancy between what the viewfinder sees and the lens itself. Let me remind you that on a soap dish these two parts of the camera are one whole, and only in expensive models the optics are interchangeable.

Let's not talk about sad things! After all, soap dishes are still considered cameras and, unlike phones, you can play with them in different modes. Study them, they may come in handy. Most often they are the same as on an SLR camera. But I do not advise you to shoot in manual mode.

In my experience, building all the settings on your own using simple photographic equipment is a very difficult task - you cannot achieve an ideal exposed picture in any case. It is better not to suffer, but you can slightly improve the image later in a graphics editor. There will be more opportunities in this regard than changing the photo taken with the phone.

On this wonderful note, I will end my fascinating story. I hope you get my idea. Take more pictures, more practice, do not forget my recommendations and you will feel the result in the near future!

For a more detailed and in-depth study of the basics of photography and the camera, the courses "" or " My first MIRROR". They have absorbed everything that is most necessary and useful for mastering. I recommend them to all beginner photographers as a desktop encyclopedia into the world of professional photography.

DSLR for Beginner 2.0- for adherents of a NIKON SLR camera.

My first MIRROR- for adherents of the CANON SLR camera.

Goodbye readers! New photo-articles coming soon! Check out my blog, subscribe yourself and invite your friends!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Thanks to new technologies in the world of digital technology, it has become possible to more often take photos of family and friends, but not everyone knows how to photograph people correctly. To get a high-quality picture, you need to know the laws of composition and learn how to properly shoot: find a suitable place for a photo shoot, choose lighting, location.

Photo session rules

How to photograph people correctly? To learn how to conduct a photo session, you need to know the rules for taking a photo. It is required to determine the point where the photography will take place, and choose a good background to place people. It's better to choose a place where you can keep everything under control. It is worth taking care that the technical equipment is in working order. You can't take good photos with bad equipment - it is important to learn how to use photographic equipment correctly.

When taking a photo session, you need to consider:

The mood and appearance of the model. This is very important, since even the slightest flaws can be visible in the photo.
In order for the picture to intrigue and attract attention, you need to carefully consider the composition and plot of the shooting, to arrange the model beautifully

What's the best way to take pictures?

Before you start shooting, you need to understand how to photograph people. You can take pictures in full growth, up to half of the body, or take a picture of the face (general, medium and close-up). If you are taking a full-length photo and do not want distortion of proportions, then the camera should be placed at belly level, you cannot hold the camera on top or below. For a waist-length photo, the camera must be positioned at chest level. For a close-up shot, the technician is held at eye level.

Lighting is important and you need to learn how to choose it. Do not shoot in low light conditions. Good lighting can remove imperfections and show the benefits. For people with weak cheekbones, light from above will work, but you cannot use this kind of lighting for people with wide cheekbones.

Angle selection

To get an unusual effect, you can photograph people from above or below. A person photographed from below will appear larger, as the proportions will be distorted. The same will happen when photographing from above - the person will appear elongated. If you will be photographing multiple people, you also need to think about making sure everyone fits nicely in the frame.

Photography at home

When photographing a house, objects from the home interior may be in the frame. These items can be used to create backgrounds, but they can ruin the photo. There is a sign that you cannot take pictures of sleeping people. Even a non-superstitious person may not like being photographed without permission.

The model can sit beautifully on a chair, in a chair or on a table. To create a unique photo, you can come up with different angles. In the frame, you can beautifully highlight any part of the body.

Many models cannot overcome their complexes and relax, and all this is recorded by the camera. The photographer should try to calm the person down - with a joke, with conversations. You cannot take pictures in an uncleaned room, if this is not intended by the shooting plot. A professional photographer will be able to hide imperfections in appearance and setting, advise postures and take a beautiful photo that can be safely displayed on a social network.

Outdoor photography

Morning and evening are the best times for outdoor photography, as the light is well diffused at this time. You cannot shoot at night without using a flash. Taking photos of children is more interesting in a natural setting, but you can advise the child to take different poses.

Street photography rules:

Before starting a photo session, make sure that all settings are correct
If the photo session takes place on a sunny day, do not forget to put on a polarizing filter
Remember the composition
Encourage models to take natural and beautiful poses.
Keep an eye on the background - it should be beautiful

When photographing outdoors, you can use buildings, trees, fountains as a background. It is not necessary to place the person in the center. Experiment, move the model to the right or to the left - it can make the photo more interesting. With experience, you will learn how to build a composition beautifully and correctly.

Professional photographer services

People always want to stop a moment and beautifully capture the pleasant moments of life. A high-quality and unique photo can be taken by a professional photographer who has good photographic equipment and knows what poses will look best in the picture. Many experts offer inexpensive professional photography. All the wishes of the customer will be fulfilled. Before shooting, you can discuss all the details. The photographer will arrive at the appointed place and at a convenient time for the client.

Processing photographs is a tricky business that requires experience and knowledge. A photographer who takes a photo session at home or on the street will be able to process the images with high quality.

Anyone with a special technique can take pictures, but to make a real masterpiece, experience and talent are needed. The specialist can use many techniques to obtain the desired result.

Art photography is very different from regular photography. If a person wants to get a beautiful portrait, he should contact a professional photographer. In this case, photography will be easy, the models in the photos will take natural poses, and the image processing will also be of high quality.